Naniwa sharpening stones are the best of the best. Japan's age-old sharpening traditions combined with Naniwa's 80 years of experience guarantee unparalleled quality. Naniwa performs constant quality checks to ensure only the best products are sold. It's this high quality that makes these sharpening stones so popular among those who love to sharpen their own knives.

Naniwa

Naniwa

Naniwa sharpening accessories enhance your sharpening experience with Naniwa sharpening stones. They assist you before, during, and after sharpening to get the most out of both your Naniwa stones and your knives. Naniwa sharpening accessories are aimed at sharpening enthusiasts who appreciate traditional Japanese sharpening products. Naniwa's sharpening accessories are designed for those who strive for the very best in the sharpening world.

Naniwa sharpening accessories

Naniwa sharpening accessories

Naniwa Pocket Pro sharpening stones are the same as the Naniwa Chocera Pro sharpening stones. The only difference is the size and use. These small sharpening stones are suitable for small kitchen knives, outdoor knives or pocket knives. Thanks to their small size, Naniwa Pocket Pro sharpening stones are lighter than the Naniwa Chocera sharpening stones. This means you can easily take them with you in your backpack. Perfect for those looking to sharpen their knives on the go!

Naniwa Pocket Pro Stones

Naniwa Pocket Pro Stones

Naniwa Basic Stones sharpening stones are budget-friendly stones for beginners. These stones are of excellent quality, regardless of the price. The Basic Stones are made in Vietnam, where the production process is strictly supervised by Japanese sharpening specialists. The stones are dual-sided and relatively soft compared to the rest of Naniwa's range. That's why it's important to regularly use a flattening stone to keep the Basic Stones in tip-top condition. Because the stones are relatively thick, they will still last you many years.

Naniwa Basic Stones

Naniwa Basic Stones

The Naniwa Advance sharpening stones will help you achieve a razor-sharp edge. These stones offer great value for money and are available from 220 grit to the extremely fine 12,000 grit. The sharpening stones have very good polishing properties and wear out very slowly.

Naniwa Advance Stones

Naniwa Advance Stones

The Naniwa Diamond Pro sharpening stones are Naniwa’s specialty stones. They are suitable for even the toughest steel types! These Japanese stones consist of an aluminium block, covered in a layer of diamond particles. The stones are bound by resin, optimally matched to the grit size of the abrasive particles. Naniwa Diamond Pro sharpening stones are tough, barely wear out and have a high concentration of sharpening particles.

Naniwa Diamond Pro Stones

Naniwa Diamond Pro Stones

The Naniwa Chocera Pro Stones fall within Naniwa's premium segment, catering specifically to professional sharpeners. These sharpening stones are magnesium-bound. They are very tough, and as a result they barely wear out. If used correctly, they will last for years. The stones barely absorb any water. Just keep the stone wet, and you can get started.

Naniwa Chocera Pro Stones

Naniwa Chocera Pro Stones

Are you looking for the best sharpening products for the best price? Look no further! At this page you will find the best sharpening deals. You will find sharpening stones, sharpening systems, knife sharpeners, sharpening accessories and more from brands such as Chef'sChoice, Edge Pro, Naniwa, Shapton and Skerper. The range varies from time to time so keep an eye out for this page!

Sharpening deals

The Miyabi sharpening stones are based on the famous Naniwa Chosera sharpening stones. Like these enormously popular sharpening stones the Miyabi Toishi Pro-stones are amazing to work with and quickly remove material.

Miyabi sharpening stones

Your whetstone must be serviced from time to time too. You can buy various accessories for that purpose from knivesandtools.co.uk. A whetstone is maintained with a flattening stone or flattening block by Naniwa. The flattening stone evens out the whetstone when it has become hollowed out through use.

Accessories for whetstones

Sharpening on sharpening stones or whetstones gives you a true sense of craftsmanship. You will get to know the characteristic features of your knife better and better. In addition, your personal sharpening style gives your knife a unique edge. The only thing you need to know is this: how do I choose the right sharpening stone?


## Grain sizes of sharpening stones/whetstones


Which sharpening stone you need completely depends on the state of your knife. And with 'which sharpening stone' we mean 'which grain size'. The blunter your knife, the coarser the stone needs to be. In other words: the lower the grain size. If your knife is still relatively sharp one sharpening stone with a relatively high grain size will be enough (let's say 800 or higher). If your knife is blunt you will need multiple stones. First a coarse stone (grain size 120) to restore the fold, followed by other sharpening stones in increasing grain sizes to sharpen the edge and finally a strop to polish the blade. But you can read more about this in our info-topic about [sharpening on sharpening stones](kato://content/migrated_topic_61).


## Material sharpening stones/whetstones


A whetstone is in most cases a composition of a basic stone, sharpening particles and a binding agent. [Skerper Arkansas](kato://content/migrated_pageid_303) and [Ardennes Coticule](kato://content/migrated_pageid_247) stones, however, are completely natural. The sharpening particles have cutting edges that ensure they can sharpen. As soon as a sharpening stone is used, small parts of the grain break off after which a new cutting edge emerges.


These particles can be made from different materials. Materials often used are carbide, ceramics, aluminium oxide and novaculite. The strongest sharpening stones have a diamond coating that cannot wear out which is also why these stones can be used as flattening stones. Flattening stones can be used to flatten your hollowed out sharpening stone. You can read more about this in the info-topic: [Sharpening stone materials: which are the best](kato://content/migrated_topic_570)?


## Binding agent


The binding agent keeping the sharpening particles together is also important. Synthetic resin is an agent that is often used. But magnesium and ceramic-bound sharpening stones are relatively common. Other binding agents are inorganic compound, nickel, synthetic sapphire and mica. The binding agent used determines the amount of sharpening particles per surface unit and thus how fast and precise you can sharpen. Some binding agents, such as magnesium, however, cannot handle water and can therefore not be submerged in water. Definitely something to take into account.


## Brands of sharpening stones


We sell sharpening stones from all famous brands. Think of [Lansky](kato://content/migrated_pageid_301), [Naniwa](kato://content/migrated_pageid_374), [Shapton](kato://content/migrated_pageid_280), [Spyderco](kato://content/migrated_pageid_317) and many more. Affordable but top-quality sharpening stones are our own Skerper whetstones.

Sharpening stones

## Reasons to buy a Hapstone sharpening system
You buy a Hapstone sharpening system if you like control, precision and a system that grows with you. Whether you want to keep your kitchen knives sharp or sharpen your collection of pocket knives to perfection, there is a Hapstone to suit you.

 The products are ideal for anyone serious about knives. Beginners can start low-key with a basic setup, while advanced users can expand endlessly with modules and accessories. The brand is known for its robust build quality, smart solutions such as magnetic knife holders, stable bases, and the ability to clip in almost any knife.
 
## Hapstone series

### Hapstone V8
The Hapstone V8 Standard Knife Sharpener is an entry-level model that provides more precision and ease of use while sharpening your knives. Thanks to the innovative Hapstone Modular Platform, you can expand and customise your sharpening system completely as you wish. Thanks to the adjustable 'table' with powerful neodymium magnets, you fix your knife quickly, easily and steadily, even with longer knives such as kitchen knives.

### Hapstone R2
The Hapstone R2 Standard and R2 Black are professional sharpening systems and form the core of the Hapstone range. They feature the Hapstone Modular Platform. This allows you to expand and customise your sharpening system as required. The R2 is known for precision, stability and versatility, suitable for both beginners and experienced users.

### Hapstone RS
The Hapstone RS is an upgraded version of the R2 sharpening system. It has an innovative 360° magnetic quick release system. This allows you to easily detach the sharpening stone holder from the sharpening system, giving more freedom and ease of use. The RS is the absolute top model in Hapstone's range.

### Hapstone T2 
The T2 is a sharpening angle guide for sharpening on stones. It is easy to use once you know how it works. Easily set and lock the desired angle within a range of 12 to 30 degrees per side. Perfect for those who want to sharpen knives quickly and easily without extensive sharpening setup. Ideal if you already have a sharpening stone and could use some help holding the desired sharpening angle.
 
## Hapstone product types

### Hapstone sharpening systems
At the heart of Hapstone are its modular sharpening systems, such as the V8, R2 and RS. Each system is made of durable materials such as aluminium and steel and offers stability and precision. They are expandable with the various Hapstone Upgrade models. Such as a precise sharpening angle regulator, convex adapters and more!

### Hapstone sharpening accessories
Hapstone offers clamps, adapters, bases, magnetic holders to extend your sharpening system all the way. Everything is compatible within the Hapstone Modular Platform.

### Hapstone sharpening stones 
In addition to the systems themselves, sharpening stones are available in various materials and grains. Remarkably, Hapstone also offers stones from renowned brands such as Shapton, Boride and Naniwa, all fully compatible with their systems. 

## History of Hapstone
Hapstone was founded in 2012 by a group of knife collectors and technicians who were dissatisfied with existing sharpening solutions. The goal: build a system that was both accurate and user-friendly, and could also be expanded in a modular way. The first model, the Hapstone PRO, was an immediate success among enthusiasts.

Since then, Hapstone has continuously developed new sharpening systems, always with input from the community. The brand is known for its innovative designs, such as magnetic knife carriers and modular platforms. At Knivesandtools, Hapstone is included because it perfectly meets the needs of customers who want to keep their knives really sharp and neat, with a system that will last for years.

Hapstone

Little cracks in your Naniwa sharpening stone: they do occasionally occur. Especially with the stones from the [Professional collection](kato://content/migrated_pageid_375) this is sometimes the case. We call these cracks hairline cracks. These small notches shouldn’t be confused with actual tears. They do not affect the quality of the sharpening stone. However, by properly maintaining your Naniwa Professional sharpening stone you can prevent these hairline cracks. Or at least limit them to a minimum.

It is important to realize that these sharpening stones do not need that much water. To improve the drainage of slurry and to make sure sharpening is a breeze, you can sprinkle them with water. Submerging the stone is neither wise nor useful: the stones do not absorb water.

## Magnesium as a binding agent

This is specifically relevant for the Professional collection (previously called Chosera). Compared to, for instance, the Super stones and the Diamond collection the Professional sharpening stones are not synthetic resin, but magnesium-bound. The main advantage of this binding agent is that the sharpening stones have more sharpening particles per surface unit. As a result, when you move your knife over such a sharpening stone, the edge will come into contact with a larger amount of sharpening particles (for the Professional collection this is aluminium oxide). The result: you sharpen faster and more accurately.

However, the disadvantage of magnesium is that it reacts quite strongly to water. For that reason we strongly advise against exposing magnesium bound sharpening stones to (a lot of) water. If you do decide to sharpen using water it is important to properly let the stone dry after use. First you need to rinse off the remaining slurry. Please note: rinse it off with a little bit of water, do not submerge the stone. Afterwards dry the stone with a microfiber cloth. This material is great because it easily absorbs water.

## Slowly let it dry

Now it is key to let the sharpening stone dry gradually. In this case there is no sense in rushing things. Put the stone on its side to make sure any remaining water can drip off. Make sure the stone won’t dry in the sun or on the heater. After all, the heat of the sun or heater will cause the surface to dry faster than the core of the stone. The tension that is created could cause small cracks in the sharpening layer. We call these cracks hairline cracks. You can reduce the chance of these cracks by wrapping the stone in the microfiber cloth you also used to dry off the stone. As a result the surface and the rest of the stone dry at approximately the same speed.

Is it a bad thing if you do happen do come across hairline cracks? No, it isn’t. A smooth sharpening stone will, of course, look better and water could seep in the cracks which means that it could take a little longer for the stone to dry. But considering the fact that you already need to be patient when it comes to drying the stone, this shouldn’t be an issue. The hairline cracks will – as mentioned before – not affect the sharpening results, which is also something Naniwa confirmed. However, if these cracks do affect your sharpening process you could, of course, always appeal to the guarantee Naniwa hands out with their stones.

Hairline cracks in your Naniwa Professional sharpening stone

Hairline cracks in your Naniwa Professional sharpening stone

The Japanese sharpening stones from [Naniwa](kato://category/naniwa) are going through yet another transformation! To fans who have been following this brand for a while, this won't come as a surprise. This isn't the first time Naniwa has changed their collections. Now, in 2024, they do so again. Not only have they renamed their series, they also changed the packaging and have given the stones a bit of a make-over. Let's take a closer look at the changes!

Naniwa renewed in 2024: new names and packaging

Naniwa renewed in 2024: new names and packaging

When it comes to Japanese sharpening stones, two brands are at the top of the game: [Naniwa](kato://content/migrated_pageid_374) and [Shapton](kato://content/migrated_pageid_280). They seem very similar in many respects but, there definitely are some differences. We will explain the exact differences between Naniwa and Shapton. This is definitely not a scientific comparison of some sort, but we have tested both brands and will let you know which differences we have encountered. We have used the [Naniwa Professional series](kato://content/migrated_pageid_375) and the [Shapton Glass Stones HR series](kato://content/migrated_pageid_289), because these series give a good picture of the average sharpening properties of the brands.

Naniwa vs Shapton

Naniwa vs Shapton

## Pros and cons of natural sharpening stones

The main advantage of natural sharpening stones is that in general they last longer than synthetic sharpening stones. In addition, natural sharpening stones slowly remove material. These stones sharpen slowly which means that the end result is a little more refined and controllable. And you sharpen your knife on a completely natural product. That could also be an important advantage to many. The biggest disadvantage is that sharpening takes a little longer than when you use synthetic sharpening stones. And no natural sharpening stone is the same. The grain size and the coarseness of the stone cannot be accurately determined per stone. That is why an estimate is given of, for example, 6000 to 8000 grit. Especially when it comes to the higher grain sizes this isn't something you prefer.

## Ceramic sharpening stones

Ceramic sharpening stones are stones where synthetic ceramic particles are combined and turned into one stone. Examples of ceramic sharpening stones are those produced by [Spyderco](kato://content/migrated_pageid_317), [Skerper](kato://content/migrated_pageid_298), [Naniwa](kato://content/migrated_pageid_374) and [Shapton](kato://content/migrated_pageid_280).

Sharpening stone materials: which are the best?

## Removing Rust


These tips will keep your Windmill knife free from rust. Should by accident some rust appear there’s a good way to solve it.


### Method 1: Naniwa Rust Eraser


With the [Naniwa Rust Eraser](kato://product/NAA-903) you can erase the rust as it were. The Eraser does polish the metal though, so be aware of small scratches. The knife will never be as new. Within a few minutes the blade will be completely free of rust and ready for use. When the rust has really bitten into the steel, you’ll notice the blade isn’t totally even anymore and it will have small dents.

50 Shades of Windmill knife: How do I keep the blade in good condition?

Sharpening stone, whetstones and water stones: we often come across these terms. Also on our own website. But what are the differences between these terms? Or: are they even different at all?? We offer you an insight into this semantic discussion.


Why not start with ‘sharpening stones’. It is the collective term for all stones you use to sharpen knives, chisels, scissors, axes, in short everything with an edge. There are natural sharpening stones that are taken directly from nature, and artificial sharpening stones that are produced in a factory. The last group is often categorized based on the sharpening material used, or the country of origin. We sell, for instance, ceramic sharpening stones, diamond sharpening stones and Japanese sharpening stones.


## Whetstones


Another term often used for sharpening stones is whetstone. Both terms mean exactly the same. After all to whet is to sharpen! It is a rather dated term but one that is still used regularly.  

The materials used for these sharpening/whetstones are very diverse. Factory stones are mostly made from aluminium oxide, ceramics or diamond. The latter means: they have a diamond-coated sharpening layer, mounted to a steel or aluminium sheet. Natural sharpening stones, such as the [Ardennes Coticule](kato://content/migrated_pageid_247) stones consist of grenades, while stones from the American [Arkansas mountains](kato://content/migrated_pageid_303) have novaculite as an abrasive.


## So what are water stones?


The best sharpening stones (or whetstones) come from Japan. At least that is the generally accepted view, one we gladly endorse. After all, the Japanese are absolute experts when it comes to sharpening. Japanese sharpening stones are made from different materials and should generally be used in combination with water. This creates a ‘slurry’, because the water mixes with the loose sharpening particles. The advantage is that sharpening is easier and faster. In addition, the material that is removed immediately drains away because of the water. As such no metal particles can get caught in the stone which could cause scratches on the knife.


It is therefore not that surprising that Japanese sharpening stones are also often called water stones. Some water stones need to be submerged in water for them to fill up while others are ‘splash & go’. This means that only the surface of the stone needs to be wet and should remain wet during the sharpening process. For practically all Japanese sharpening stones applies that either one of these two methods of using water is necessary or strongly recommended.


The exception being Japanese diamond sharpening stones, such as the [Naniwa Diamond Stones](kato://content/migrated_pageid_902) collection. After all diamonds don’t wear out, which means that no particles are released while sharpening. There is therefore also no such thing as slurry when you sharpen your knives on diamond sharpening stones. You could, however, add a little water to the stone to make sharpening a little easier and less noisier.


## Are water stones exclusively Japanese?


Although they are often used together, ‘Japan’ and ‘water stone’ don’t necessarily have to go together. Not every Japanese sharpening stone is a water stone and not every water stone comes from Japan. Does this mean that non-water stones should be used ‘dry’. No, this is also not the case. Instead of water you could also add a couple drops of oil to the surface of some whetstones. This mostly applies to very hard natural sharpening stones. In general, however, the following applies: most common (non-diamond-coated) whetstones could be typified as water stones. 


The advantage of the (rare) oil stone is that they don’t wear out as quickly as the softer water stones. Water stones, however, remove a lot more material and are therefore a lot faster to work with. The difference between the two is caused by the binding agent that is used. The sharpening particles of a water stone are bound by softer material, the particles of an oil stone by harder material. Magnesium, for instance, which responds strongly to water but is still very strong. For that reason you should never submerge magnesium-bound sharpening stones.


## So the conclusion is…?


To conclude: sharpening stones and whetstones are the same and water stones are a frequently occurring sub-category of these stones. So don’t be confused by the logical suggestion that a whetstones should always be used in combination with water. That is not the case. In addition, water stones don’t always come from Japan.


When choosing a sharpening stone (or stones) you should always keep your goal in mind. Do you want to polish your knives? If you do you shouldn’t choose the diamond sharpening stone or an oil stone. In that case we recommend you always use a water stone with a high grain size. However, if you are also satisfied with less sharpness and want fast results diamond stones are a great option. Finally, do you only want to purchase one sharpening stone but use multiple ‘grits’? Why not opt for the Ardennes Coticule sharpening stone where the amount of slurry you create determines how fine you can sharpen.

Sharpening stone, whetstone, water stone: the meaning behind

Japanese knives are different from European knives, simple. But what are the differences? In general the type of steel, the grind and the handles are different. Each with their own advantages and disadvantages. In this article we discuss which those are. 


## 1. The blade


### Type of steel


The hardness of the steel determines how long a knife retains its sharpness. The hardness is tested in the factory with a special machine and indicated as the Rockwell Scale of Hardness, part C (in short HRC).


In general, Japanese knives are made from a harder type of steel than European knives. While the hardness of the steel of a European knife is often between 54 and 58 Rockwell, the Japanese knives often start at 58 Rockwell up to 66 Rockwell.


Please note: the harder the steel, the more vulnerable the blade. The blade is less flexible and will damage a lot faster if you make a wrong movement. With a Japanese knife you, for instance, need to be careful around bones and other hard things. If you make a wrong movement with a European knife this won't immediately affect the blade.


### Thickness of the blade


Another difference is the thickness of the blade. The thickness of the blade is measured at the spine of the blade. The knife is thick at the spine and will become thinner towards the edge. This is the same for every knife. The thinner the edge, the less resistance you have as you use it. But that is also where the vulnerability comes in again, as is often the case for Japanese knives.


European knives have a thicker blade than Japanese knives. The advantage is that the blade is less vulnerable and, as such, perfect for more tasks. Cutting through a melon is a piece of cake with a European knife. You can use a European knife for basically everything.


### Sharpening angle


The type of steel and the thickness of the blade determine how thin the cutting edge can be sharpened. Japanese knives often have a small cutting angle of approximately 15 degrees while a European knife has one of 20 degrees. Here we are talking about a sharpening angle per side. This comes down to a sharpening angle of 30 degrees for the blade of a Japanese knife and 40 degrees for a European knife.


By now we know that a thinner blade offers less resistance, but we also know that a thinner blade is more vulnerable. There is also another important difference you should definitely take into account. A harder blade is more difficult to sharpen. The hard steel of an Asian kitchen knife cannot be honed with a honing steel. You can, however, use a ceramic sharpening steel. You achieve the best results with a Japanese waterstone made by, for instance, [Naniwa](kato://content/migrated_pageid_374), [Shapton](kato://content/migrated_pageid_280) or [Skerper](kato://content/migrated_pageid_298).


You can easily sharpen a European knife. For daily maintenance you use a honing or sharpening steel and when you really want to start sharpening you can use any type of sharpening method.


### Short summary


**Advantages Japanese blade** 

- Sharper grind 

- Retains its sharpness longer 

- Less resistance when you use it


**Disadvantages Japanese blade** 

- Sharpening takes some getting used to 

- Vulnerable 

- Requires maintenance. We will, of course, also tell you how to [maintain a Japanese knife](kato://content/migrated_topic_8).


**Advantages European blade** 

- Easy to sharpen yourself 

- Less vulnerable, can be used for more tasks 

- Doesn't require much maintenance


**Disadvantages European blade** 

- Needs to be sharpened more often 

- More resistance when you use it

Japanese versus European kitchen knives

## Sharpening stones for the regular sharpener

Are you already mostly proficient in using a sharpening stone and are you ready to invest in good sharpening stones? Then the sharpening stones listed below will be the right fit for you. It's especially nice to use harder sharpening stones when you sharpen often. You need to be more careful with the sharpening angle and your sharpening technique, but that won't be a problem for you! An added advantage of these harder sharpening stones is that, with regular use, they wear out less quickly and you will be able to enjoy them longer. Of course, this does depend on how and how often you sharpen. Another advantage of these sharpening stones is that you can choose from different grain sizes. Because of the relatively large selection of different sharpening stones, you have a lot of options when choosing the grain size that is right for your knives and sharpening technique.

Are you ready for a responsible investment? We recommend the sharpening stones from the [Skerper Professional](kato://category/skerperprof) or [Naniwa Super Stone-series](kato://category/naniwasuperseries)!

Buying guide sharpening stones: the best sharpening stones for you

## Sharpness after use

After cutting, all the knives undergo the sharpness test again. In this test the ceramic knives perform considerably better than the steel knives. The test proves they do stay sharp for a longer amount of time. In using the knives we have not felt the difference in sharpness between ceramic and steel knives. This is because sharpness test only measures the sharpness of the blade itself. The geometry of a blade plays a big role in how the knife feels to the user. It is possible that a knife does not do extremely well in the sharpness test, but due to its geometry it can still cut really well. We also note that the ceramic knives are all thicker than the steel knives.

## Sharpening ceramic knives

The next step is sharpening the blades. The steel knives we sharpen on Naniwa Chosera stones up to grit size 5000\. For the ceramic knives we have used a battery charged diamond sharpener. Ceramic is such a hard material it can only be sharpened by diamond. It is difficult to get an even sharpening result with the diamond sharpener. The knives do get sharp but it takes quite some time and effort to get rid of the chipping on the blade. The machine also jams often, so we are not very positive about this means of sharpening.

The ceramic knives can be sent to the supplier to have a professional sharpen them. The box the knives are shipped in contains a voucher which can be exchanged for sharpening the knives. The problem remains you cannot use the knife for a certain amount of time and have to pay shipping costs. Just doing quick maintenance on your knife at home, with a sharpening rod or whetstone, is impossible. For steel kitchen knives there are many different possibilities to sharpen them at home or give them a quick touch-up.

## The twisting test

On the packaging of the ceramic knives it says they are unsuitable to twist and flex with. However, it is impossible to prevent some sideways pressure on the blade at all times. The twisting test also says something about how it can withstand falling so we have tested al the knives on this.

In this test a U-shaped holder is placed over the blade. The holder is twisted and we measure how much force we have to apply before the blade breaks. The Kyocera of 18 cm’s did pretty well with 0,33Nm. Even better than the thinly sharpened carbon steel knife we have tested, which broke with 0,30Nm. The Kyocera 13 cm knife did not do so well and breaks with 0,08Nm. When we tested a thin VG-10 knife of a big Japanese brand we could apply 7,75 times more pressure compared to its ceramic counterpart with 0,65Nm. The Wüsthof Classic knife we tested wins the test easily with a 1,34Nm.

The cheap ceramic knives do not come close to the Kyocera knives. One knife even broke when we put the holder on the blade to start the test. The difference between the cheap ceramic knives and Kyocera is not just the price and sharpness, but also lies in the quality of the material.

Ceramic knives

## Sharpening your garden tools

Sharpening garden tools is very important. This is because dull tools take more strength, work less precisely and increase the risk of accidents. Sharpening ensures sharpness, efficiency, safety and more fun.

### When should you sharpen garden tools?

* Pruning tools: every few jobs or when cutting results are less than satisfactory
* [Axes](kato://category/axesprodpage) and [saws](kato://category/sawsprod): at the beginning of the season, after intensive use or in case of visible damage

### How do you sharpen your garden tools?

Garden tools can be sharpened in two ways: either by moving the tool over the sharpening stone, or by moving the sharpening stone over the tool. In most cases, the latter method works best. This is because garden tools are often quite large, making it difficult to hold them steady while maintaining the correct sharpening angle.

Even with smaller tools like [pruning shears](kato://category/pruningshears), you usually choose the method where you move the sharpening stone. The construction of the tool often gets in the way if you sharpen using the other method. Therefore, a compact sharpening stone that is comfortable to hold is ideal for maintaining garden tools. This will give you maximum control over your movements and sharpen more accurately.

There are special sharpening stones for some tools that better match the shape of the blade. For example, do you have garden shears with a curved edge, like a parrot beak? Then a convex or concave sharpening stone, such as the [Naniwa Gouken](kato://category/naniwa?series=Gouken), will be ideal. For tools with a straight edge, a small sharpening stone, such as the [Skerper Pocket Stone](kato://product/SVSO003), will be perfect. For an axe, we recommend the [Skerper Axe Sharpening Stone](kato://product/SVSO002).

Saws are usually sharpened with a file or a special sharpening steel. Keep in mind that this is precision work: you have to sharpen each serration individually. This will take some time. This is why we also offer [replacement saw blades](kato://category/sawbladesprod) for many of our saws. This is a quick and practical solution if sharpening is too much work.

Sharpening your garden tools

## Which coarse sharpening stone do I need?

We offer many different sharpening stones and combi-stones. These sharpening stones are mostly used to remove deep imperfections of the blade. Among our coarse grinding stones there are several options to choose from; not all coarse grinding sharpening stones are the same.

We have coarse diamond-coated sharpening stones from DMT, like this [DMT DiaSharp Benchstone Coarse](kato://product/DMTD6CX). Diamond sharpening stones are always a good choice, because they take material off very quickly thanks to the hard diamond particles.

In addition, we also have 'standard' sharpening stones with which you can restore a blunt or damaged edge just fine. Other popular options among coarse sharpening stones include the 220 grit [Skerper Professional stone](kato://product/SVSP220) and the 120 grit [Shapton Pro Stone](kato://product/SJK0701), which sharpens your blunt knives with ease. Using these stones will give you results in no time at all.

It is important to note that there are differences between stone types from different manufacturers. For example, a 220 grit ceramic sharpening stone with will sharpen differently than a stone made of a softer material in the same grain size. For example, there are [important differences](kato://content/migrated_topic_152) between the two well-known Japanese brands Naniwa and Shapton.

If you are not sure which stone is suitable for your knife, we will be happy to give you individual advice.

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